Field guides

I have amassed a collection of bird books over the years.
My first ever book was  this one:

My dad had a copy of this book and I loved looking at the little thumbnail maps.  It showed if the bird was a year-round resident or a summer visitor.   I found it essential when looking for information.

When I no longer lived at home, it is one of the first books I bought.  I used it often.  

During one careless camping trip to Lake Superior, I left it out on the picnic table over night.  It got wet and the pages stuck together.  I cursed my thoughtlessness and tried to dry the book carefully.  Because the paper had a shiny finish, it made the pages stick together if they were not separated during the drying process.  I remember putting leaves of toilet paper between each page to prevent the book from becoming an unusable brick of paper.     In the end I think I bought a new copy.

I wish I had kept that damaged book, because I write notes in the margins.  I had kept a list of birds that I have seen.  I am sure that now I will have forgotten that I have seen some of those birds.  I have a few notes in the margins of this copy.  Maybe it was beyond help. 

My eldest son now lives in Portland, Oregon and he had a hummingbird at his feeder this week.  A hummingbird in November is worthy of looking up.  With minimum research, I discovered that there is a resident and year round population of Anna's hummingbirds living in Portland.  Dashing for my book of North American birds I discovered that my beloved book is only for Eastern birds.  Portland is firmly on the West coast.  Different bird populations and a completely different field guide is needed.  

Here's the thing. . . I don't live in Portland, Oregon in the Pacific NW of America.  I live here in Scotland.  Do I get myself a field guide for birds of Western Birds?  I'll only be there two weeks.  Of course I'll be visiting from time to time to spend time with my son and his family.  I may get one. . . . I can add it to the field guide section of my library.

These are my field guides to things (fish, coral, seashells, turtles etc) in the Red Sea.  I do actually  need both field guides.  There are some animals in one book that are not in the other.  I have discovered over the years that I use both.  

As you can see, I still write notes in the margins. Also obvious is the damage of one of the books. A rescue dog that we had here for a short time, ripped the book up.  It is still quite usable.  I am just going to tape it up and carry on.

Belgian Chocolates

A few years ago, a dear friend of mine, Robyn and her partner Deidre started a chocolate shop in Minnesota.  They've been working so hard to produce beautiful, and delicious quality chocolates.  They travel all over the US to learn new techniques.  They stay on top of the latest trends, try to use local and organic ingredients when that is possible. . . .so mostly, they're pretty groovy.  I've had their stuff sent to me here in the UK and the chocolates they produce rival fine European chocolates.

 

I told Robyn that I was headed to Belgium.  As they will not be over here anytime soon, I said I'd take photos for her and investigate trends. I also picked up some brochures, but the bag with the brochures (and gourmet chocolate) was surgically lifted from my shopping bag in London by somebody who wanted it more than me.

Some chocolate shops were just that.  Chocolate shops.  They were part of a chain and there was corporate uniformity.  As pretty as it is, it seemed to lose something.  For one, there wasn't the overpowering chocolate smell that is present in the other shops.  These other shops were shops in front of the production.  The chocolates were made on site.  It was also telling that these shops had a lot more foot traffic.

If there was a window so that the customer could see the production, there was always somebody having a look.

One thing I noticed was that the bargain chocolate shops were less busy than the good ones.  Nobody wanted to buy less expensive and novelty items as the perception was that they might not be as nice to eat as the other delights on offer.

I believe that Bruges has over fifty chocolate shops.  There seems to be enough custom for them all to survive.  I am sure that those who have a reputation for excellence and a good location will do better than others.  This means, that if you don't know what you're doing or your chocolate is not good, you will not survive in Belgium.

One of the things that will pull customers (and me) off the beautiful streets of Bruges and into the shop is this:

Abundant chocolates piled up and just WAITING to be purchased and eaten immediately.  I mean look at that!
In the above photo you can see my reflection as I take a snap of the orange slices dipped in chocolate.  Seville oranges are in season right now.  The bitter oranges are best for marmalade AND the partially dried slices are perfect for dipping in super luxurious Belgian chocolate.  We bought those every day.  One slice for me and one slice for The Man of the Place.  If we buy more than one slice each, . . we'll eat more than once slice each.

Chocolates bought loose and kept in bags and the bag is in the pocket of your winter coat will not keep.  As you walk around magical and historic Bruges, you'll remember they are in your pocket. Before you know it, they have evaporated.

Even though it was January when we were there, February and Valentine's Day looms.  Some love hearts were already appearing.

There isn't a bit of hot chocolate powder in the city.  If you order hot chocolate (chocolate chaud) then this is what you will get:

A chunk of rich Belgian chocolate that is melted into steamed milk.  It isn't cheap, but it is warm and very decadent. They really do make a great effort with the service of hot chocolate, making the entire experience one of pleasure.

We didn't go there for the chocolates but it was fun to be diverted by them. 

Integrated Transport

I loved our visit to Amsterdam!  One of the things that is immediately apparent is that they have actual integrated transport. 

One can get off the plane, collect your luggage and walk to the train station.   While we were collecting our luggage, we bought a 5 day train/bus/tram ticket from a chipper and cute as a button helpful person right next to the luggage carousel!  It seemed to be a good idea to get the transportation portion of our budget out of the way.  A train caught at the train station (waiting time for train 15 minutes) will take you right into the centre of Amsterdam . . .

From Amsterdam Centraal - Dutch spelling folks ;-)  You walk over to the tram stop and wait for your tram.  In this instance the wait for the tram was 8 minutes.  The tram takes you to about two blocks of your hotel.  Genius!  I was impressed by how all the different modes of transportation are integrated.  Our tickets were good for the trams and buses all over the city.  You "checked on" to each bus or tram by presenting your card to an electronic sensor and it "blipped".  At the end of your journey, you checked out as you got off by presenting your card to the sensor once again.

We followed the directions and got off at our stop . . . but got a bit confused as to which direction to walk .

We figured it out.


The above is a put together by the hotel we stayed in while we were there.

So from the time we landed until we were knocking on the door of the hotel was less than an hour.  We had taken a train and a tram with very short walks and brief waiting times.  I loved that!  I know how UNintegrated transportation is if one arrives at Glasow airport. 

We walked/took a tram everywhere on this trip.  My poor feet suffered.  I am unused to walking quite so much.  I should walk more.

The other mode of transportation in Amsterdam are the canals or grachten (plural of the word gracht).  Boats are still a viable form of transportation in Amsterdam though there is no public system on the canal.  If you want a boat ride, you're going to have to make friends with a boat owner OR go pay to go on a canal tour. 

We did that!  We followed the advice of the Lonely Planet guide and went to Boom Chicago on Leiseplein where we booked passage for a boat tour the following day.

It was like being on your pal's boat.  Everything was easy and relaxed.

Everywhere you go in the world, you can always find an Irish bar.

Beautiful old warehouses with the old canal access.  So beautiful.  I loved the architecture and the huge windows of the buildings.

Seven bridges view

The old houses all have tilted fronts and large booms with hooks on them.  Front doors are small and staircases inside are narrow and steep.  If you wish to get furniture into the house, it is going to have to get hoisted through a window.

I can only imagine the sort of canal tour that we took is at its best on dry summer days.  What can be nicer than sipping Heineken as you glide along the canals, taking in the sights.

Luggage Madness

I am going to have a little rant here. WHY do people over pack? It is maddening!! Suitcases are getting bigger and bigger. They're the size of coffins as it is! When will it all end?

This is how suitcases used to look.


Nobody used to complain about those. The worst thing that happened was that it would get confused with the others that looked just like it. You got everything you really needed in there and didn't really miss anything did you?

I have waited to check in while the over packers remove stuff from their suitcases.  The airlines are going to charge them for excess baggage (which can be very expensive).  The over-packers don't have the money to pay the charges and they have to get on that flight.  It must be humiliating for them. Some of these oversize suitcases aren't designed well enough or are sturdy enough to carry the weight that the size suggests they can carry. If these behemoths are packed to capacity they will fall apart. The baggage-claim area is a great leveler. I've seen over packers in baggage-claim areas upset because their suitcase zips have split, the wheels have pinged off and the handles have come away in their hands


This is a photo of an offensively huge suitcase. In my own private world, you could only use this if; 1) you are going away for the entire summer 2) leaving your spouse 3) you're emigrating 4) your diving equipment is in there. You can't use a suitcase of this size if you are going away for a week. Don't even think about using this case if you're going away for the weekend!

quote from my mom -

"Oh, I HATE those things! It was a sad day when they put wheels on suitcases. When the day comes that I can't carry what I need in one small, light bag, I'm gonna either quit travelling or hire a bearer...."

You think these people were going away for months on The Grand Tour of Europe. However, they're only going for a week or less. Geeze, get a grip! You can't really need all that junk!

This is an example of a normal modern suitcases. I'm not putting in an ad for suitcases, this photo just had the best examples.
The larger suitcase in the above photo is what The Man of The Place and I share for our annual vacation. We do go to hot places where lots of warm clothing isn't needed. We like to save our luggage allowance for the diving gear. The smaller one is a perfect weekend size and is fine for carry on. Now please don't think the larger blue case is okay for carry on. Its just too big.

I pride myself in not being an over packer - It is actually very nice to travel without all that stuff along.  That's me holding my luggage for two weeks (packed)!  I will say that I did have diving equipment in another case - but that little green case holds my clothes and toiletries for the holiday.  I had one pair of shoes  - on my feet and that was it!  I didn't miss anything and I wore each item I brought along.  I didn't even have to run to a store to get something that I had forgotten and needed.

I'm just hoping beyond hope that at least one over packer will see this and re-think what they need to bring along next time.


reprinted and modified from an entry I wrote in 2006

It Was Hot!

My family and I enjoyed temperatures in the low to mid 40's C the entire two weeks we were in Port Ghalib, near Marsa Alam in Egypt. We had a fantastic time!! As in our other visits to Egypt, we found it to be a very welcoming place. There wasn't one single incident where we weren't felt welcome. We felt safe too. I even made a trip into Port Ghalib by myself a couple of times and didn't feel the slightest bit worried or hassled. If you know us at all, you will not be surprised to learn that we spent 10 out of the 14 days diving. Some days the sea was like a mirror.

Weather the sea was calm or had a little swell to it, the visibility under the water was always good. Some days, the water was like gin and we could see for over 30 meters, other days it was slightly cloudy. I must say that even on the worst day, the visibility was still at about +15 meters, which by UK standards is pretty fantastic.Here we are - I know that the Man of the Place looks a bit like he's sinking or trying to pull us down. Really he is a fantastic diver and is v. graceful under the water.

The hotel was wonderful! We stayed in the Marina Lodge formerly Coral Beach. The dive company we used, Emperor Divers (and have used in the past) have a centre on the ground floor of the hotel.
The rooms were lovely! The rooms were spotless and bordering on luxurious! On top of that, everything worked!The days we didn't spend diving, we lounged by the pools, and met up with new friends for drinks.

I got to wear my new hat! Me and Jean Luc and his delightful wife Sylvie. Jean Luc and I were dive buddies for almost a week. Our dive styles suited each other as we are interested in the small fish, nudibranch and other small things that are found in coral reefs. Mocktails at Pizza Hut - I cannot remember the name of the blue drink, but it was cold and refreshing.Mojitos (doubles) and beers at TGI FridaysWe also took advantage of the free WiFi to check who Sunderland has signed for the upcoming season.Henry was concerned that Peter Crouch was going to be signed.

I know that he is under age. We were unsure of the alcohol laws in this very relaxed and friendly country so we assumed, as did the waiters that George is allowed the occasional cold one in the company of his parents. Coming up . . . . Mum is a fish nerd, karaoke and sharks!

Tropic of Cancer

We're off on our annual family holiday. You can be certain that it will include lots of diving.

We will be very close to the Tropic of Cancer -

This one:

Not this one:

With regard to Mr Miller's book. I am ashamed to say that I've never read it. I checked out a copy from the local library and am taking it with me to read during the non-diving days.

I discovered that WiFi connections are the equivalent of 10 Euros an hour - so forget that! I'm not taking the laptop. I may post while I'm away if there is a convenient internet cafe.

Annan Riding of the Marches

During the first Saturday in July, in conjunction with the Riding of the Marches, or Annan Common Riding there is a pipe band competition with a parade at the end. Pipe (bagpipe) and drum bands the world over come to the small town of Annan to take part in this competition. The benefit to us is that we get to see a very high standard of marching when we attend the parade.

The Marches or boundaries of Annan have been ridden since the town was created a Royal Burgh more than 600 years ago. Each year in early July more than one hundred horsemen and horsewomen Ride the Marches to ensure that the landmarks, cairns and other features have not been removed or tampered with and all is safe

The past several years we have missed this parade as we have already departed for our annual summer holiday. This year, due to scheduling, we're not leaving on our holiday until the 8th of July and we were able to travel into Annan to see the pipes. Although I can ride, I haven't ridden in years and I don't have a horse. I would love to go out with the riders one year. It looks like great fun! The High Street (main street) is blocked to traffic for a couple of hours. It seems that the regulations for drinking in public is relaxed as well.

The pavements get crowded with spectators and competitors. There are lots of kilts around. Competitors are getting ready for the first march down the street.
The riders!

We had a good spot near the beginning of the parade. We were just in front of the Annan branch of our bank and across the road from Mr Graham's where George has always gets his hair cut. We've had an exceptionally warm and sunny week but the luck didn't hold out until Saturday. Saturday was overcast with occasional showers. Thankfully there was no wind with the rain and the showers that came during the parade were light and warm.

There are pipers of all ages, sizes and from all walks of life.

The second group of pipers - playing Scotland the Brave - I love to see them getting into step at the beginning of the video clip.


The third group of pipe bands - neighbour girl Laura's head in the bottom of the frame.

Even with a small amount of rain everybody had a great time. Pipe bands make such a stirring sound. I love that I live in a place where I can catch a bit of it from time to time.

Gulyás - Hungarian Goulash

I think just about everybody has a memory of their school's version of goulash, I certainly do. It usually involved hamburger, macaroni and tinned tomatoes, possibly an onion or two. Traditional Hungarian goulash cooked by a traditional Hungarian!

I had my understanding of goulash gently corrected by my Hungarian friends the last evening of my stay in Budapest. Incidentally goulash - (to pronounce it in Hungarian, I think it is similar to English but one omits the "L" sound) is the word for herdsman or cattleman. It is a dish that was cooked outdoors by cattlemen, similar to the origins of American chili.

Last year when I visited Budapest there was some sort of May Day celebration in the centre of the city. It involved a goulash contest where large groups of people wearing team t-shirts slaved over an open fire that had a beautiful cauldron (bogrács) suspended over it by a large metal tripod. I was told that this was a goulash contest. It reminded me so much of a chili cook-off as they have in Texas. Indeed each cauldron had some sort of soup bubbling away in it. I was informed that this soup was none other than goulash and cooking it over the fire was the most traditional way to prepare it. So, proper Hungarian goulash is soup and not the casserole style dishes I was served throughout my childhood.A fire was lit in a front garden and proper goulash making started.


I get hungry just looking at this clip!

Tough bits of meat are made tender by the long cooking process. Indeed, my friend The Hungarian wished for longer to simmer his creation but time was not on his side.

The meat is browned first. Then onions, possibly garlic is then added . . . and then you start getting into the rest of the soup ingredients. The recipes are varied but goulash always includes but is not limited to meat, potatoes, paprika, peppers. This is when the peppers were added. Potatoes in this version were added last.

Incidentally traditional Hungarian goulash does not contain any tomatoes. It gets is wonderful red colour from the copious amounts of paprika that is thrown in. If you are wearing white, be careful as goulash splatters will be hard to get out later if you're a sloppy eater!We helped keep The Hungarian company by sitting outside in the beautiful evening air and sipping wine that was purchased earlier in the week.

I must say that the end result was sublime! It was served with big slabs of bread. Food cooked outdoors always tastes good but this was above and beyond better. I wish I had remembered to take a photo of the bowls at the table later on. My dear friends are so generous and though the goulash was delicious, I am ashamed to say that I could not finish the portion that was given to me.

Széchenyi Baths

I don't understand why Hungary isn't a more popular holiday destination. It has just about everything going for it. It has great currency with mustachioed kings on it! It has beautiful architecture, wonderful local foods served in generous portions, wine regions, nature AND because it used to be part of the old Ottoman Empire and there are thermal springs in Budapest, they have the baths!!
If I lived in Budapest, I'd have a lifetime membership to THIS PLACE!
The front desk

My pal Jo joined me on my trip to Budapest this year and the way the planning went this time around we got an entire day to play at the baths.We got there very early and immediately upon checking in we went up to the sports massage desk to book our massages. I'm glad we were early. There were two openings right away. Jo went first and then me.There are the private changing rooms with their enamel doors and more of that old world charm that seems to be as integral as the grout between the thousands of tiles.
Then there are the lockers which are less expensive and not quite so private. We went for lockers.
Our lockers

Last year I was comforted to note that this place is scrupulously clean. It still is. There wasn't a bit of dirt anywhere! In any forgotten corner there was an absence of the detritus that can usually be found there. With all the warm water and bathers, one would expect the occasional musty or damp smell but this wasn't there either.
The cold pool for laps - with statues

There are three large outdoor pools. Each pool is a different temperature. There is the cold pool in the centre where laps and serious athletic swimming occurs. There is this pool which is the warmest at 38 C. Famous photographs of old chess players are taken at the edges of this pool. Indeed the day we were there we saw at least two chess games going.
There was also a card game being played by these gentlemen. By the depth of colour on their skin, one can assume that they are regulars here. The cards were particularly interesting. The cards looked almost like a tarot deck. I have no Hungarian so I couldn't ask them if I could have a closer look at the cards. As it was, I mimed a request for permission to take their photograph.We had a glorious May day with barely a breeze and undiluted sunshine. After having been pummeled during our massages, soaked in the warm water and indulging in some serious people watching we got thirsty. For a mere 300 Hungarian forints, you can have beer. Nice beer too.
We had lunch on this terrace.OK, so with health inducing surroundings such as this, one would expect different food but sometimes you just want chips (french fries). Washed down with more beer, I felt completely relaxed!

After lunch we investigated the almost dozen rooms on the opposite side of the complex to the changing rooms.There is this room with exquisite red pillars surrounding the warm water pool.

There are pools with varying degrees of warmth from freezing cold plunge pool, 18C to very warm 40C. There is this pool that has a current. It reminds me of those pools that are used for therapy for injured race horses.
Of course there are saunas as well. There was the aromatherapy sauna that smelled of Olbas oil and this Finnish sauna that was the hottest one in the complex.We had a full and completely relaxing day. At the end of our day, we waited for our hosts in one of the temporary cafes and had . . . another beer!