Széchenyi Baths

I don't understand why Hungary isn't a more popular holiday destination. It has just about everything going for it. It has great currency with mustachioed kings on it! It has beautiful architecture, wonderful local foods served in generous portions, wine regions, nature AND because it used to be part of the old Ottoman Empire and there are thermal springs in Budapest, they have the baths!!
If I lived in Budapest, I'd have a lifetime membership to THIS PLACE!
The front desk

My pal Jo joined me on my trip to Budapest this year and the way the planning went this time around we got an entire day to play at the baths.We got there very early and immediately upon checking in we went up to the sports massage desk to book our massages. I'm glad we were early. There were two openings right away. Jo went first and then me.There are the private changing rooms with their enamel doors and more of that old world charm that seems to be as integral as the grout between the thousands of tiles.
Then there are the lockers which are less expensive and not quite so private. We went for lockers.
Our lockers

Last year I was comforted to note that this place is scrupulously clean. It still is. There wasn't a bit of dirt anywhere! In any forgotten corner there was an absence of the detritus that can usually be found there. With all the warm water and bathers, one would expect the occasional musty or damp smell but this wasn't there either.
The cold pool for laps - with statues

There are three large outdoor pools. Each pool is a different temperature. There is the cold pool in the centre where laps and serious athletic swimming occurs. There is this pool which is the warmest at 38 C. Famous photographs of old chess players are taken at the edges of this pool. Indeed the day we were there we saw at least two chess games going.
There was also a card game being played by these gentlemen. By the depth of colour on their skin, one can assume that they are regulars here. The cards were particularly interesting. The cards looked almost like a tarot deck. I have no Hungarian so I couldn't ask them if I could have a closer look at the cards. As it was, I mimed a request for permission to take their photograph.We had a glorious May day with barely a breeze and undiluted sunshine. After having been pummeled during our massages, soaked in the warm water and indulging in some serious people watching we got thirsty. For a mere 300 Hungarian forints, you can have beer. Nice beer too.
We had lunch on this terrace.OK, so with health inducing surroundings such as this, one would expect different food but sometimes you just want chips (french fries). Washed down with more beer, I felt completely relaxed!

After lunch we investigated the almost dozen rooms on the opposite side of the complex to the changing rooms.There is this room with exquisite red pillars surrounding the warm water pool.

There are pools with varying degrees of warmth from freezing cold plunge pool, 18C to very warm 40C. There is this pool that has a current. It reminds me of those pools that are used for therapy for injured race horses.
Of course there are saunas as well. There was the aromatherapy sauna that smelled of Olbas oil and this Finnish sauna that was the hottest one in the complex.We had a full and completely relaxing day. At the end of our day, we waited for our hosts in one of the temporary cafes and had . . . another beer!

Back to Budapest!

I have just settled back home after spending a lovely three days in what is fast becoming a favourite place for me, Hungary! Last year was the first time I had ever been there and this year on my second visit, I found my love of the place deepening.

As I was there for only a short period of time, we were very busy! When I was invited back to visit my dear friends I said that there were three things I hoped would happen. I wanted to:
1. Visit Tokaj region of Hungary where the excellent Tokaj wine is made.
2. Return to the Szechenyi Baths in Budapest
3. Have some traditional goulash as we had seen being made over an open fire in a cauldron suspended by a tripod frame.

My dear friends managed to help me get all three of those things squeezed into the brief stay!

On the way from the airport to where we were staying there was a stop for cake! I love these guys! They have their priorities in the right place!We ate these lovely cakes outside in the shade on a perfect, warm spring day.
To add to the celebrations, when we got there a rare and beautiful bottle of Tokaj wine was opened (bottle number 192 of a mere 700 bottles that were produced that year from that particular producer) and sipped in the garden. We walked around picking cherries off the a tree, nibbling on some peas and listening to crickets and woodpeckers. You can see the acacia blossoms were starting to fall. They littered the place like confetti. The air was still perfumed with their sweet perfume.
From left to right, Chameleon, The Hungarian, Jo and Me! This picture was taken Sunday evening. We had again gone to the excellent Szephalom Vendeglo - always worth a visit too see what is being served up. In addition to the regular menu, this restaurant dedicates a section of the menu to what is in season so that the chef can take advantage of the best of what Hungary has available that month. Raspberry Fanta? It certainly isn't available HERE!


Next time - Tokaj, One of the most famous wine producing regions in Hungary.

The Fun We Had

I know you shouldn't wish your life away, but I can't wait until next year!

If you're going to visit Budapest don't miss the House of Hungarian Wine on Castle Hill. They have a fantastic wine tasting that helped us on our way to becoming insufferable experts on Hungarian wines.
The Great Market in the center of Budapest closes at 2:00 pm. The upstairs where food and drink is sold, stays open until 3:00 pm. If a bottle of Tokaj wine is being shared out between five people, we start behaving like siblings and ensuring that each glass has the exact amount in it and nobody gets more or less than everybody else.

A dinner cruise on the river is a great way to get some excellent photos. Gordon's photos of the city from the river at night are gorgeous!

If you go late to Széphalom Vendéglo you may be denied desert. This happened to us the first night. (I know! The horror of it all!) Picture all the staff in their street clothes leaning against the bar waiting for those tourists to leave so they can go home.

This desert, Chocolate Strawberry Dream was denied us the first night. BeforeAfter

Do not under any circumstances miss out on going to one of the baths that Budapest is famous for! We went to the Széchenyi baths and had so much fun! The weather was sunny and warm with only the lightest of breezes so all those outdoor pools were crowded. This didn't diminish our enjoyment one little jot! The raging rapids part of the 23 degree pool and the bubbles were especially invigorating. Oh, and I had a massage! There actually were people playing chess in the pool. They were over in the 40 degree pool.

Have an ice cream! It is as tasty as it is stylish. Nom nom nomHave some cake!
If you get to Budapest, don't forget your camera! The city and country are so beautiful. You will want to get photos of everything! Buy some souvenirs! I recommend some of the beautiful embroidery. Louise bought this beautiful top and I bought a tablecloth.
Bring an umbrella for the occasional shower!

If at all possible, you should try to see Budapest with these people. They are the best hosts and traveling companions a girl could wish to have!
If you are not able to travel with those people, you will need a map. If you don't have a map, try GPS!